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Phra Nakhon serves authentic cuisine in Capella Bangkok’s relaxing riverfront setting

by Joakim Persson
Phra Nakhon restaurant, Capella Bangkok

Phra Nakhon Thai cuisine fine dining: Historic Phra Nakhon in Bankgok is home to the 18th-century Grand Palace. It also stands as model and name for the riverfront restaurant at Capella Bangkok, serving authentic Thai cuisine and with – one has to say – a modern twist. Here, it is described as focusing on simple, authentic, beautifully presented creations (in this particular case one can, upon arrival, see those ingredients on display at the indoor open kitchen).

Five-star hotel dining, is usually the best way to experience Thai cuisines at its best – since in such settings a lot attention has gone, and goes, into the details of anything from a genuine Thai vibe to the quality of ingredients, the use of herbs, and the presentation.

Southern grilled, marinated, wild caught squid with turmeric, kaffir lime leaves and herbs

Southern grilled, marinated, wild caught squid with turmeric, kaffir lime leaves and herbs

In Bangkok there could hardly be a better setting than at a riverfront terrace at the banks of Chao Phraya river, a sunset view and seated at bright marble tables, with linen towels, comfy vintage-style pillow-decorated rattan dining chairs, and with comfy vintage-style table lamps, gold-yellow tinted glasses and brass cutlery in vintage Thai style.

At golden hour the yellow light from the sun is reflected on the restaurant and hotel facades. The restaurant as such is built as a conservatory, which is nestled in a lush garden, flanked by large trees.

Phra Nakhon is such a nice city escape to be riverside, and in this case away from the traffic noise. At dusk it gets even cosier and constitutes a perfect joie the vivre experience!

Then menu is like opening a book where there are black-and-white photos from Bangkok’s yesteryear, with printed photographs of the former Grand Post Office, Wat Arun etc.

Riverfront at  Phra Nakhon, Capella Bangkok hotel

Riverfront at Phra Nakhon, Capella Bangkok hotel

The restaurant presents its cuisine as its “humble tribute to the profusion of indigenous ingredients procured from passionate farmers and fishermen, considerately transformed into the perfect balance of sweet, spicy, sour, salty and bitter.”

It pays homeage to rustic family recipes handed down through generations, each inspired by the many regional cooking styles of the restaurant chef’s childhood in rural Thailand. While taking inspiration from neighbourhood Charonkrung Road (which was the centre of downtown Bangkok in the late 19th century), the restaurant also presents tastes from every corner of the country.

Fish crackers with chilli paste is served as a pre-starter while you study the menu.

As nibbling the choice falls on Deep-fried baby shrimps, which is accompanied by a sweet chilli sauce with cashew nuts; and Southern grilled, marinated, wild caught squid with turmeric, kaffir lime leaves and herbs. The yummy shrimps come with green herbal leaves. The squid is cut in chunks – grilled to perfection and very flavourful with the herbs that also includes edible floors. Squeeze some lime over the squid and there are three sauces as condiments, with different chilli to opt for depending on what one’s taste buds favour…

Confit apple dessert, 
Phra Nakhon restaurant

Confit apple dessert,
Phra Nakhon restaurant

The remaining part of the dinner also gives the chance to experience indoor dining as a typical monsoon evening rain arrives to obstruct the alfresco experience (luckily after experiencing the best part of it).

In the conservatory lighting is dimmed, and also here with rattan chairs made with dark brown wood, grey leather (including wall-mounted) padded sofas, with square and beige marble tables.

For main course the choice falls on Sun nai nua pad grapao for its intriguing mix with foreign beef: Bangkok style classic wok-friend Australian beef, holy basil, garlic and jinda chilli paste. It’s a spicy wok dish, including red paprika and full of herbal taste. And the beef is superb!

Other interesting dishes on the menu upon this visit were:
Pla Mueg Yaang Kamin – Southern style grilled turmeric marinated squid with kaffir lime leaves and herbs; Kor Mhoo Yaang – I-San style grilled marinated pork neck with homemade pickles and spicy sauce; and Nua Pad Kaprao – Bangkok style classic wok-fried grass-fed beef tenderloin with holy basil, garlic, and jinda chili paste.

For something ‘All Day Sweet’ – desserts are more of the international kind, including Brûlée vanilla cheesecake with blueberries and raspberry sorbet.

But the Confit apple turns out to be a dessert like no other, somehow with interesting Thai touches in how it is presented, the Green apple sorbet and crunchy granola.

The dessert has three round layers as base and with an ice cream cube on top and cut fruit slices as garnish – served in a beautiful plate

Phra Nakhon is open daily for breakfast and for Thai Lunch menu / Western Selection from 11.00 to 23.00 hrs.

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